Thousands attend Orthodox Christian Holy Fire ceremony in Jerusalem's Holy Sepulchre

JERUSALEM—As they poured into the recently reopened streets and alleyways of the Old City, processing to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christians of Orthodox backgrounds soaked in the moment. 

They were the only religious group in the city able to celebrate their holiday after 40 days of war-time restrictions that closed the Holy Sepulchre and the Al Aqsa Mosque, and limited worshippers at the Western Wall. 

Since the outbreak of the U.S.-Israel war on Iran on Feb. 28, Israel’s Homefront Command prohibited gatherings spanning holidays, including Purim and Ramadan, through Passover and Easter for Catholics and Protestants on April 5.

However, the ceasefire between the U.S., Israel and Iran was announced just in time for the largest event on the Christian calendar in Jerusalem – Sabt il-Nour, Saturday of Light.

“See? There is a God and our religion must be the right one,” one Orthodox Christian joked as he waited for the scouts to parade from the Holy Sepulchre on Saturday. 

Thousands of Christians, mostly local, poured into the Old City for the Holy Fire Saturday—a centuries-old tradition that takes place in the Holy Sepulchre the day before Easter. The event typically draws thousands of Orthodox Christians and pilgrims from around the world. 

This year, however, it was attended primarily by local Christians since Israel’s skies have been shut down. 

A group of Armenian Christians who live in Haifa attended the event for the first time. One of them told ALL ISRAEL NEWS she wouldn’t have come if it were a normal year because of the crowds and the chance she wouldn’t get to see anything.

“This is nice,” she said, gesturing at the relatively empty chapel on the balcony of the Armenian section of the church. 

Another family, with mixed Armenian Orthodox and Syriac backgrounds, felt safe bringing their children this year without the crush of tourists adding to the crowd. 

The Holy Fire service is dramatic, somber, loud, long and breathtaking. In the morning, church attendees proceed to the Holy Sepulchre with their respective churches. Once inside, they will wait for hours until the official ceremony begins. 

The ceremonies entail each denomination completing three processions – some of them raucous – around the edicule three times. 

Afterward, the Greek Orthodox patriarch and an Armenian priest are sealed inside the tomb. The lights go out, and a hush falls over the cavernous 4th-century stone church. 

After a few minutes, a candle—believed to have been lit from the spirit of Jesus – is passed through a hole in the side of the tomb. 

Suddenly, the church erupts in rejoicing and cries of “Messiah is risen indeed,” as the flame is quickly passed from candle to candle, to the heads of all the churches and to thousands of worshippers. Within seconds, the darkened church is awash in light as rhythmic bells announce the resurrection.

The Greek Orthodox Patriarch emerges from the tomb and is hoisted up on shoulders as he waves two large candles.

From the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the flame is carried to the churches in the Old City and around the region to Bethlehem and Nazareth. It is also flown to Orthodox churches around the world, including Greece, Cyprus, Romania, and Russia.

For local Christians, Orthodox Easter is the most celebratory holiday on the calendar. This year, without the usual crush of tourists, the churches were theirs alone to enjoy.

Thanks to the ceasefire, shops and restaurants in the Old City – shuttered until Thursday – were also resurrected. Music filled the Old City as scouts from each of the churches paraded from their churches to the Holy Sepulchre with flags, drums and bagpipes.

Jerusalem Mayor Moshe Lion estimated that 10,000 worshippers participated in the Holy Fire ceremony and extended blessings to the Christian communities.

“After a challenging period in the country, we have returned to routine, including the sacred ceremonies of the three religions living side by side in the city,” Lion said. “Jerusalem will continue to be a beacon of tolerance for Christians, Jews, and Muslims.”

Every year for the event, police erect barricades around the Old City and limit entry into the Old City and the church itself to those who have received wristbands from one of the participating churches. The ancient 4th-century church has only one entrance and exit. 

Haaretz reporter Nir Hasson criticized such strict security measures during a year that very few pilgrims were able to attend. 

“The police are blocking off the Old City and treating it as a security incident rather than a religious celebration,” he wrote on X. “Eight checkpoints from the New Gate to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. A lot of grumbling and anger in the Christian community, as usual, along with shoving and confrontations at the checkpoints and at least one arrest.”

Several videos circulated of scuffles with police. Police said, “the incident in question involved a small number of individuals, some of whom were under the influence of alcohol, who attempted to disrupt public order and the proper conduct of the Holy Fire ceremony by refusing to clear a designated route for a religious procession.”

“Police officers acted to maintain order and ensure the safe continuation of the event. During the incident, one individual physically assaulted an officer and was subsequently arrested,” the statement said.

The Palestinian Authority said some scouts who had Palestinian flags on their uniforms were harassed by police and some were arrested.